Aromatics Elixir

House: Clinique

Perfumer: Bernard Chant

Release: 1971

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Rose, Chamomile, Coriander, Rosewood

Heart Notes: Jasmine, Lily of the valley, Ylang ylang, Carnation, Tuberose, Orris

Base Notes: Patchouli, Musk, Amber, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Civet, Oakmoss, Cistus

Review

Released in 1971 only three years after the Clinique brand launched, Aromatics Elixir was a generation-defining, accessible scent for women moving away from the heavy, spiced perfumes of the 1960’s. This was a sharp, medicinally bitter green powder that came out the same year as Chanel No. 19’s galbanum-driven green monster. Chamomile shines by blending well with the green notes, but softly bringing in the fruitiness of rose before ending with a well-blended white floral and inoffensive amber musk finish. The chamomile keeps the floral and the white musk soapiness from becoming cloying. For this, we include Aromatics Elixir near the top of our Top 10 Chamomile Perfumes.

From our wear of a decant of the current EDP, there was a brief hit of grassy, sharp green that opened quickly into a lovely spiced floral soap. We were expecting the galbanum and coriander blast to last a bit longer, but perhaps this has been dialed down over time with the reduction of the heavier moss and musk notes. The floral accord is delicate and spiced, the clean spice facet of rose and carnation retained with new ingredients. We don’t get any fatty, waxiness from the jasmine or tuberose. The chamomile does, on our skin, perform a role similar to immortelle in tying together the floral bouquet. This is a rose scent with other supporting florals more than a narcotic white floral with a rose tilt.

After an hour, this is still powerful floral with a sharp note that smells a mix of a refined patchouli, civet, and other musks. The floral heart drops out before two hours and we are left with a spiced, sharp, musky, powdery soap that continued for hours. It is a lovely smell, one tied to childhood memories for many. This does actually smell like our grandmother, and she may very well have worn this as a daily wear in the late 1970’s and early 1980’s.

We get moderate to high projection, noticeable sillage, and good longevity.