Serge Lutens Five O'Clock Au Gingembre

House: Serge Lutens

Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrak

Release: 2008

Fragrance Notes

Notes: Bergamot, Candied ginger, Honey, Patchouli, Pepper, Dark cocoa

Review

A characteristic Serge Lutens scent by Christopher Sheldrake, released in 2008, this gourmand candied ginger unisex perfume luxuriates in a tea of bergamot, honey, and cacao. The patchouli and pepper keep this from drowning in sweetness, although the dried fruit and honey may turn off those who abhor any sweet note.

On a cold winter’s day, we got a surprising blast of rich fruitiness on application of a 2020 decant that turned honey spice quickly. We heard one part of brain saying, “Look away, this is too sweet.” The other part said, “Ignore them, you like ginger, you like honey, you like chocolate, come back.” We didn’t expect the fruit opening, which did not smell to us like bergamot.

After the first blast, the candied ginger stole the show for a while before allowing the patchouli and pepper to join. Other spices, likely cinnamon and nutmeg join, maintaining a sweet spice that extends for well over an hour. The dark cocoa is there just past the sweet and spice as a dry, rich base that drops into a relatively sweet amber finish. This masterful spice blend, but still ginger at its heart, led us to include Five O’Clock Au Gingembre at the head of our list of Top 10 Ginger Perfumes.

This is a masterful composition by Sheldrake that is enjoyable to sample even if you wouldn’t wear this regularly. One of our staff commented that this, “smells like an old lady.” To which we thought, rich old ladies with good taste. In fact, this is unisex, probably not a daily wear, likely better suited to someone with broader perfume experience. But, who knows? Didn’t Thierry Mugler prove that there broad appetite for intense gourmands? If you like Angel, and you are looking for something refined (you’ve gotten older), this may be for you.

Placing this scent against the other work from Sheldrake during the period sheds some light on his continued refinement of the dry gourmand that has become his signature. This goes straight back to Borneo 1834 (2005), in which the dry cacao note as a foil to the patchouli of its namesake. At the same time, Sheldrake was serving as an outside mentor to Olivier Polges as he prepared to take over the reins from his father Jacques Polges as only the fourth head perfumer at Chanel. Sheldrake worked with Jacques Polges on both Coromandel (2007) and Sycomore (2008). In both of these, you get the trademark blending quality from Chanel and a refined implementation of patchouli and pepper. With Gris Claire at Lutens (2006) you get the dry wood and incense base that inform the dryness at the base of Five O’Clock Au Gingembre. The tension between warmth and austerity, sweetness and dry spice, fresh and preserved give life to a perfume that would otherwise fall flat.

We get moderate projection and noticeable but not obnoxious sillage. This stayed around on our skin well over 12 hours with a very subtle spicy, powdery, dry amber.