L'Air du Désert Marocain

House: Tauer Perfumes

Perfumer: Andy Tauer

Release: 2005

Fragrance Notes

Top Notes: Coriander, Cumin, Petitgrain

Heart Notes: Rock rose, Jasmine

Base Notes: Cedar, Vetiver, Ambergris

Review

Perfumer Andy Tauer has established a cult following for scents like this. The cumin and coriander brightened with petitgrain provide an earthy, spicy, musky, bright opening. Some reviewers are bothered by this spice opening. The rock rose (labdanum) and jasmine support a sweet, resinous, powdery transition to base of vetiver, ambergris, and still sweet labdanum all held in balance with a dry cedar. L'Air du Désert Marocain is not unique in the spice, labdanum, vetiver combination, just very well done. This is why we list L'Air du Désert Marocain in our Top 10 Amber Perfumes.

In our wear of a 2020 decant, the opening was much smoother than expected. The coriander and cumin notes are so well blended that they beckon more than assault. The petitgrain perhaps is some brightness to the floral, but not a distinct note. The jasmine is so clearly floral, and yet so much dryer and ethereal than any jasmine we have smelled. This was sweet from the beginning with the resinous labdanum. The slide from jasmine to ambergris is sublime. After an hour, a solid smoky, earthy note emerged that I take to be the vetiver, like a Bourbon vetiver and could be a darker ambergris note. Some reviewers have noted getting a coffee note and others smoky incense. This is warmer in the drydown than we expected, which cements its status as an amber scent more than the scent of desert mountains.

Longevity is good. Projection is moderate and sillage is low.