Top 10 Fougère Perfumes
The idea of fougère has been mined for so many decades that complaints about its decline into meaninglessness (e.g. aromatic fougère, oriental fougère, fresh fougère, modern fougère) often neglect to note that the original fougères had no underlying meaning either.
In our mind, the original fougères sold a fantasy of the sophisticated gentleman’s ability to simultaneously experience the wild, animalic sensuality of the forest, rich with the romance of decay, the refined pastoral of bergamot, lavender, and hay (coumarin), and the sublimated eroticism of the walled flower garden. The scent allowed men to experience a more open sensuality without completely losing their masculine, hard-charging colonial mindset. Dialogues of gender and scent remain very specific to a given scent and fraught over centuries, as we discuss at length in our Top 10 Coffee Perfumes review.
The gender norms associated in the 20th century with fougères in the United States are deeply embedded in male children’s memories of their fathers. The fougère is tied to the concept of a “barbershop” scent and to the practice of wet shaving. In the archetypal gender ritual, the son would go with his father to the barbershop as their one solo excursion for the week. He would sit off to the side, perhaps in a window seat in the morning sun, intently watching as his father settled in for a shave. The father will likely ignore the presence of the son, who also hears the banter of the men in the barbershop, able to speak without women present. The father, who usually projects invincibility, will be vulnerable with a razor against his neck and open to the physical care of another man. The boy will smell the soap as it is applied, the aftershave, the talcum, the leather strop, the sweat of the group of men. And then something for the boy, a tussle of the hair, candy, a comic book, maybe a movie. With language failing them, it is through the scent that both the father and son can share and remember the moment that most closely approaches the calm, sustaining love that both are seeking.
This ritual persisted decades later through the mass market fougères that men used daily after shaving at home and now leads to a somewhat frantic search for the classic fougère that will recreate the feeling of belonging.
Ironically, Caron’s Number 3/Le 3ème Homme/The Third Man (1985), which was named in part to honor Orson Welles’ character in The Third Man, remains the most current fougère attempting to integrate gender roles through scent in the way that the original fantasy implies. Ironic because while the scent celebrates the power of floral scents to open the heart, Welles’ character Harry Lime is the archetype of the rejection of love and friendship, particularly longstanding male friendship, with complete disregard for human life.
Of all the rest, Azzarro pour Homme stands out for an ingredient, patchouli, missing in the originals, but central to the idea of mysterious and luxurious earthiness that one would expect in such a forest.
Photos and video by Taryn Elliott. Editing by Lavender and Spice Staff
Released in 1985, named to honor the performance of Orson Welles in the movie of the same name, this scent is transgressive in the way that the late 19th and early 20th century hits were. Men should smell of flowers, the depth and fruitiness of rose along with the indolic, full and waxy jasmin. The carnation is joyfully present with its spice to support that facet of the rose. A well-executed vanilla adds delightful depth and sophistication to any base; a lazy sketch ruins the whole piece. In our mind, relying only on a lavender/geranium accord to carry the whole composition is a missed opportunity. Why not save the aromatic citrus for a standard cologne? Number 3 (only the third men’s scent from Caron) misses no opportunities. This has the aromatic, sharp citrus opening, a spiced and mildly erotic floral heart, ending with a gentile, powdered base. This is a scent that can be worn regardless of gender because it has considered and moved beyond the gender norms of its time (and now) intentionally.
Top Notes: Lavender, Rosemary, Anise, Bergamot
Heart Notes: Geranium, Jasmin, Rose, Fern, Carnation
Base notes: Amber, Musk, Moss, Cedarwood, Patchouli, Tonka, Vanilla
2) Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur
Coming quickly on the heels of the successful Jicky (1889), Mouchoir de Monsieur, launched in 1904, moved backwards in time to create a scent that has become nearly timeless. Jicky had become an unexpected darling of women and men daring to flout some scent conventions. Mouchoir de Monsieur was created by Jacques Guerlain to provide a more respectable masculine alternative to Jicky. As reviewers have noted, the structure is not much different from Jicky, but more explicitly incorporates the emerging fougère style driven by Fougère Royale (1882). The bergamot, geranium, lavender opening later became a barbershop signature, but here was a blast of aromatic, green floral, citrus that kept a cleaned up indolic floral heart from getting ahead of itself. The spices are more restrained than in Jicky, and from opening through the drydown, less sweet. Over 100 years later, the scent remains remarkably similar, with some adjustments to the moss and a major reduction in civet. This is a formal scent for many, but can be worn enjoyably in many settings.
Top Notes: Verbena, Geranium, Bergamot, Lavender
Heart Notes: Jasmine, Rose, Tuberose, Neroli, Patchouli
Base Notes: Woods, Cinnamon, Civet, Musk, Iris, Vanilla, Tonka bean
The fairy tale of Fougère Royale (1882) has a darkhorse contender from Wild Fern (1877), although Parquet did develop a version in 1875 with another house. Two other fougère’s were released in 1870 and have since been lost to time. Perhaps Fougère Royale is famous then for the use of coumarin more than the dream. Wild Fern was released by Trumper in 1877. It is a much greener scent than the dank forest of Houbigant, The classic accord or bergamot, lavender, and geranium is present, but not all are listed. This is noted as a forerunner to Penhaligon’s English Fern, which was a brassier version at the top, but overall similar.
Notes: Musk, Oakmoss, Basil, Amber, Woody notes, Patchouli
Azzaro’s release of Azzaro pour Homme in 1978 came at the end of the era of the green monster and before the power fragrances of the late 1980’s. This scent became an almost instant classic in Europe and continues to have a following globally. Recent reformulations to adhere to restrictions on atranol and what detractors claim to be an increase in the use of poorly blended synthetics have taken some of the luster away from this affordable gem. However, the bergamot (here accented with lemon) and lavender and geranium opener remains recognizably bracing. The pairing of anise and basil remains a signature. The tonka in the base (or coumarin) remains the same with weaker moss notes and the same dry sandalwood/cedar accord. The trick of this scent is that with all of these notes already listed, the earthy spice anchored by patchouli comes through. This may be a perfume for older gentlemen. But it may also be the scent for everyone who realizes, “Old man knows what he is talking about.”
Top Notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Basil, Clary Sage, Lavender, Geranium, Anise, Petitgrain
Heart Notes: Vetiver, Patchouli, Cardamom, Caraway, Juniper berry
Base notes: Musk, Ambergris, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Amber, Oakmoss, Tonka, Musk, Leather
For many of the generation in their 40’s and 50’s, this scent recalls the scent of their childhood assuming Brut and Old Spice were not the only daily wear. Guess what, this generation now has the same old men as their fathers in the 1980’s. Released in 1973, this aromatic fougère by perfumer Jean Martel modernized the barbershop cliche that fougère had fallen into over time. This is soapy/powdery, bright, lavender, but with a well-executed aromatic opener and a long drydown during which the clean soapiness is held in tension with the tobacco, amber musk. This is simpler by far than Azzaro pour Homme and cleaner and more modern (see less floral, no civet) than Mouchoir de Monsieur. Of course, there is much tearing of clothes over the oakmoss restrictions in more recent formulations.
Top Notes: Rosemary, Sage, Rosewood, Laurel
Heart Notes: Lavender, Geranium
Base notes: Moss, Honey, Tonka bean, Musk, Amber
The list would be not be complete without its namesake. The 2010 reboot of the brand is satisfying if not overwhelming given the hype that it must overcome. Taken on its own, the scent is a solid accomplishment, with a bold opening led by bergamot and clary stage that balances floral, herbal and spice through to the restrained drydown. Certainly worth the experience given the history and a good scent on its own.
Top Notes: Lavender, Bergamot, Clary sage, Spikenard, Petitgrain
Heart Notes: Geranium, Heliotrope, Rose, Orchid, Carnation
Base Notes: Oakmoss, Tonka, Musk, Vanilla, Hay
After many decades of attempts at reinventing the fougère, this 2016 release from Amouge by perfumers Olivier Cresp and Fabrice Pelligrin signals a return to form with no sense of pastiche. This is a refined, expertly-blended statement piece with strong performance on projection, sillage, and longevity. This is a spiced version of the genre, and a patchouli bomb for the ages, but one kept lighter with lavindin and bright citrus opening and a beautiful use of sandalwood/cedar notes to dry things out in the heart.
Top Notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Cypress, Lavandin, Nutmeg, Clove
Heart Notes: Geranium, Cinnamon, Cedarwood, Sandalwood
Base notes: Patchouli, Musk
Nothing like a bunch of pissed off British perfume classicists eager to defend the reputation of their royal warrant-holding brand against the nihilism of a usurper in their midst. Sartorial, by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, is a major departure from the long history of more “natural” compositions. Here the synthetics are celebrated and integrated into a new fantasy of the Saville Row tailor’s shop. All of the top notes and other flourishes aside, the scent is a classic barbershop in the American or French style, which is a further insult to the loyalist. This would be near the top of the list if all of this effort at transformation was more successful.
Top Notes: Aldehydes, Ozonic Effect, Metallic Effect, Violet Leaf, Neroli, Cardamom, Black Pepper, Fresh Ginger
Heart Notes: Beeswax, Cyclamen, Linden Blossom, Lavender, Leather
Base Notes: Gurgum Wood, Patchouli, Myrrh, Cedarwood, Tonka Bean, Oakmoss, White Musk, Honey Effect, Old Wood Effect, Vanilla, Amber
9) Yves Saint Laurent Jazz
This 1988 release was anachronistic when it was released. Thirty years later, is it timeless or still out of its correct time, or just right Offbeat? The scent is styled after the originals of the fougère category, but with a much lighter touch on the musk and the addition of a greener opening and spicy heart accord. The carnation, cinnamon, nutmeg give this a restrained uniqueness that is blended well into the base. We particularly enjoy the use of carnation in this genre. The lavender/geranium and tonka/moss notes are consistent with the definition of the genre. So, this is a cleaner version of exactly what you were looking for with a nice spicy flourish.
Top Notes: Artemisia, Lavender, Bergamot
Heart Notes: Nutmeg, Geranium, Carnation, Cinnamon
Base Notes: Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Leather, Amber, Moss
10) Rogue Perfumery Fougère L'Aube
Rogue Perfumery’s brand depends on not following IFRA restrictions on the levels or use of many materials, most notably oakmoss in this genre, but also rose. IFRA guidelines are voluntary in the United States, but most large perfume houses prefer to have a single formulation that can be sold in Europe in compliance with the guidelines. So, buyer beware, this may have levels of ingredients that could lead either to an allergic reaction or sensitization. Most of these restrictions are for skin reactions and seem reasonable. Arguments, and conspiracy theories, generally fall in areas where lack of strong evidence has led IFRA to be more cautious than some would like. After all that, the higher oakmoss levels and high quality natural ingredients combined with deft, but loud application of aromachemicals makes for a scent that tickles the nose of nostalgia while performing well today.
Notes: Lavender, Green Citrus, Galbanum, Geranium, Hay, Moroccan Rose, Amber, Camphor, Sandalwood, Oakmoss, Costus
